“The Island of Witchcrafts”
By Mary Grace Asis
Part of Filipino’s culture believes in superstitions. There are lots of them and some are really absurd like sleeping with wet hair will make you crazy or a lingering black butterfly is a sign that one of your relatives just died. Personally, I don’t believe in any of it, not even in ghosts or spirits. In my 27 years of existence, I’ve never experienced anything that could convince me it’s real.
When I heard the story about Siquijor island as a place for people practicing voodoo, I was very excited thinking I could probably learn something more than what I already know, so I decided to put it on the list of the places that I will visit.
The best way to get to the island is of course flying from Manila to Dumaguete, then a boat to Siquijor, but I had a better idea of traveling – I took the long way. From Manila to Romblon to Panay then Guimaras to Dumaguete before Siquijor. Crazy? I’m not. I took my time; I stayed few days in each of those places, why not? I’m on holiday.
My experience in Guimaras wasn’t very pleasing which made me feel relieved to set foot in Dumaguete, the place to get a ride to Siquijor. I also thought it was necessary to spend few days in a city before heading to another island. I boarded on a vessel they called as ‘fast-craft,’ it was a rough ride, the waves were smashing on us which made me dizzy and I puked twice for a trip that lasted only for an hour. Geez… I was really glad when we reached the port of the enchanting island.
My first impressions about the place were very positive – it’s clean, quiet and everyone was nice and helpful. I took a tricycle to reach the resort that I already marked on the island map I’m holding, the place is called Larena, about 2 hours away from the port. The driver talked to me nicely and was very kind to help me with my luggage. He also helped me look for someone in charge at the resort who was nowhere to be found when we arrived which took me 30 minutes of waiting.
The place I stayed was simple and cozy. Few bungalows fronting the beach are with hammocks in every pair of coconut trees. I felt a little uneasy when I thought I’m the only guest they have and the one at the reception seems to be always away. I tried to ignore the idea and looked forward to how relaxing it’s going to be. It was getting late and I still haven’t eaten anything. After fixing my things, I went out and found the girl at the reception, lucky! I asked her if they serve food, she said yes and gave me the menu. The first dish I picked wasn’t available so I asked for something else which was also not available. In the end I opted to have what was listed as “noodle soup” and guess what was served to me, Lucky Me instant mami chicken flavor for P60.00, haha… I enjoyed it though. I finished eating and still didn’t see anyone staying in the resort. I decided to go to bed early, I was dead tired anyway.
I woke up from the sound of the roosters coming from somewhere and the sun rays blinding my eyes. It was too early to get up but I didn’t plan to stay on bed seeing the beautiful weather so I got up on my feet. I checked how it looks outside and to my surprise, each bungalow is occupied by young foreign tourists who were either reading a book or having breakfast while watching the sunrise. I went to the reception, ordered something and came back to my place with a cup of coffee. I played a chill music, sat down on the terrace and started appreciating the view of the sun coming up from the horizon. The sand and the sea were glistening and the breeze was relaxing… one of the best mornings I can remember.
My day continued to be very satisfying. I had to ride a tricycle to visit the different attractions around the town. My first stop was the Cambugahay Falls. The sight was an eye candy for a nature lover like me: nice turquoise water surrounded by healthy green plants and impressively clean. I enjoyed swimming for about an hour before deciding to move on. My next stop was the Balete tree in the town of Lazi which is said to be about 400 years old. The locals believe that it has healing power and maybe home for the “engkantos”. What amazed me was the water coming out from it like a spring; there was a pool at the bottom which gives a good view of the roots. It looked creepy but the location ruined it. If only it’s in the middle of a jungle which requires a hike, maybe I could have felt something but it was beside the main road. The sound of every vehicle passing by takes away all the magical feeling. In addition to that, the tourists were flashing their SLR cameras including me with a tripod posing here and there. The last place I checked was Mt. Carmel Monastery and beside it was the Convent (also in Lazi), acclaimed to be Asia’s largest and oldest. I’m not a fan of churches; I left after taking a few photos. The day went by fast, next thing I knew the sun was starting to set so I headed back to the resort.
My remaining days were spent going around the town, talking to people, checking resorts and taking more photos. I couldn’t help noticing the big mansions in the island in fascinating styles, wondering if it’s owned by politicians or maybe foreign investors.
After I left the island, there’s one thing that I’m sure of. Voodoo isn’t real and given the chance I will spend another holiday in Siquijor.
400 Year Old Balete Tree
Cambugahay Falls